To control hair, you turn to styling products. And with any styling product, hold comes from droplets of polymers that deposit between individual strands of hair. As they dry, these droplets create a network of bonds between the hairs, and this is what holds the hair in place. How much control you’ll get from your hairspray depends on the amount and type of polymers in the formula you’re using and the fineness of the mist when it’s sprayed.
In general, more polymer means more hold and control, but how strong depends on the characteristics of the polymer itself—some are just naturally more binding than others—and how concentrated the formula is.
In addition, the nozzle you use plays a role. Typically, a pump spray will give you larger droplets in a more direct, targeted stream—so you can get a stronger hold. An aerosol, on the other hand, usually has a wider, finer spray. So you get smaller droplets collecting over a larger surface area, which can give you a lighter, more flexible hold.
But there’s one thing that can trump both the polymers and the type of nozzle on the bottle: your arm. If you hold your arm out and spritz your hairspray from too far away, you may not get enough product to your hair to give you the hold you wanted. If you spray directly onto the hair at close range you may make your hair too stiff. Try to hold the bottle about 6 to 8 inches away from your hair to get it just right.